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You need to check the local or state requirements where you will be using your boat, but in most states you must register an inflatable especially if you use an outboard motor on the boat.
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There are many cleaners available designed specifically for inflatables. Our best advise is for you to ask the people you bought your boat from what they recommend. Cleaning should be done as frequently as necessary, especially on white boats. Once your boat is clean, we recommend using a protectant on the boat. Again, there are many protectants designed specifically for inflatable boats. Avoid using any products that contain silicone because silicone can be absorbed into the fabric over time, and it can make gluing difficult or impossible if you ever have to repair your boat or attach any accesories.
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The best way to prevent growth is by applying an anti-fouling paint formulated specifically for inflatable boats. There are several brands available and you should be able to find one at either the location you purchased your inflatable, or at a marine store that carries bottom paint. Be sure to follow the manufacturers' directions for proper adhesion and performance.
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Check the air chambers to make sure the boat has proper pressure. If your boat has an inflatable keel, check that as well. The pressure in the main tubes and the keel should be 2.8 PSI. If you have a high pressure drop stitch inflatable floor, it is important that the floor is also properly inflated. The proper pressure for the floor is 8.7 PSI. When a boat is under pressure, the floors will flex or the bottom of the boat will have more drag causing the boat not to perform properly. The best way to check the pressure is by purchasing an air pressure gauge that gives an exact pressure reading.
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First we need to determine where the water is coming from. It may be that the motor is sitting too low on the transom and splash is off of the lower unit. The proper way to adjust the engine height is to run a straight line along the keel line of the boat and make sure that the fin of the engine above the prop is even with the bottom of the boat. You may need to adjust up and down up to 3/16" for best results.
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The first step is to visually inspect the boat for any signs of abrasion or small holes. If the boat seems to appear OK, then there are other areas to check. Make a soapy solution in a spray bottle and first spray around the valve and valve bases. If there is a problem with the valve, the solution will bubble. The o-ring or the flapper, or in an older boat even the valve itself may need to be replaced. Other areas to check for leaks would be the seam areas. Spray all the seams and along the rub strake and also around the end cones. Any air leaks will cause small air bubbles to form from the soapy water solution. If you do find air leakage, the location will determine the best way to resolve the issue. A simple repair can be done by yourself, but if the problem is more severe please refer the repair to a professional for best results.
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If your boat has a transom, look for the metal ID plate. Located on this plate is your model number and the serial number. The last 2 digits of your serial number denote your model year. Once you have determined the model year you can go to the download/archive tab on our website and download that year's catalog and look through it to determine the model you have based on length, width, color, seating attachments, etc. The good news is that most of the parts available today are interchangeable with the parts that were used on your 20 year old Achilles.
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All Achilles boats are made of Achilles own chlorosulphonated polyethylene, or CSM, fabric. Small repairs can be made with a one part CSM glue, however for any larger repair, or for the attachment of any accessories, we recommend the use of a 2-part CSM adhesive. These are available from most inflatable dealers, or from most major marine retailers as well. You must also be sure to use Achilles CSM fabric when repairing your Achilles.
